Formal wear
Black tie accessories: bow tie, cummerbund, braces and socks
The pieces that complete a dinner suit
A dinner jacket and trousers are only part of black tie. The accessories do the finishing, and each one has a job.
| Accessory | Purpose | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Bow tie | Frames the collar | Black silk, sized to the width of your face |
| Cummerbund | Covers the waistband | Silk, pleats facing up |
| Braces | Hold the trousers at the natural waist | Worn instead of a belt, hidden under the jacket |
| Dress socks | Keep the leg line unbroken | Dark, plain, long enough to cover the calf |
| Pocket square | Adds the only free detail | White, flat fold |
Bow tie: self-tie or pre-tied
A self-tie bow tie is a shaped strip of silk you knot yourself. The result is never perfectly symmetrical, and that slight irregularity is what makes it look natural. It can also be untied at the end of the evening, which a pre-tied bow cannot.
A pre-tied bow is knotted and fixed in advance and fastens with an adjustable band. It is consistent and quick, which is why it is popular for weddings, hospitality and events where many people must look the same.
Whichever you choose, the width of the bow should roughly match the width of your face between the outer corners of the eyes. Cocoon of Artisan offers both self-tie and pre-tied bow ties in 100% mulberry silk.
Cummerbund
A cummerbund is a pleated silk sash worn around the waist. Its purpose is to cover the point where shirt meets trousers so that no shirt fabric shows below the jacket button.
- Wear it at the natural waist, half over the trouser waistband.
- Pleats face upwards.
- Match it to the bow tie in colour and material: black silk with black silk.
- Do not wear it together with a waistcoat. It is one or the other.
Our black cummerbund is made in 100% mulberry silk.
Braces
Formal trousers sit higher than everyday trousers and have no belt loops. Braces hold them at the right height all evening, so the waistband stays level and the trouser line stays clean.
Braces come in two back shapes. Y-back braces join into a single strap at the back and are the lighter, more common style. X-back braces cross at the back and attach with two straps, spreading the load more evenly. Both are hidden by the jacket, so choose by comfort. The braces in our collection combine elastic webbing with top-grain cowhide leather fittings and are sized for a wearer height of 168 to 185 cm.
Socks
Choose plain dark socks that stay up. Knee-high socks guarantee that no skin shows when you sit or cross your legs. Our dress socks are knitted from 76% mercerised cotton and 24% polyamide, in mid-calf and knee-high lengths.
Quick checklist
- Black silk bow tie, sized to your face.
- Cummerbund at the natural waist, pleats up, or a waistcoat.
- Braces, never a belt.
- Long dark socks.
- White pocket square in a flat fold.
If you are choosing a square, see the pocket square guide.
Frequently asked questions
Which way do cummerbund pleats face?
Upwards. The folds open towards the chest. The cummerbund sits at the natural waist and covers the waistband of the trousers.
Is a pre-tied bow tie acceptable for black tie?
Yes, provided it is silk and well proportioned. A self-tie bow is the traditional choice and has a slightly irregular, natural shape, but a good pre-tied bow is neat, quick and reliable.
Do you wear a belt with a tuxedo?
No. Dinner suit trousers are made without belt loops. They are held up with braces, and the waistband is covered by a cummerbund or a waistcoat.
What socks go with black tie?
Plain black socks long enough that no skin shows when you sit. Knee-high dress socks are the safest choice.
